Logan Square had a small walk-up on the far west end of the neighbourhood for years. El Cubanito at 2555 N. Pulaski Road was a favourite that served Cuban sandwiches and was a magnet for locals as well as those from other neighbourhoods. And as many times as I had walked by it, I never got in any of the long lines to try out their sandwiches. And then there was a change to the walk-up. It closed and expanded into a nice sized restaurant. I then made it a point to go for a visit.
I had gone several months ago and had a ropa vieja since I wanted something fast. I was completely blown away with how much I loved the way they piled the sandwich with shredded beef in a rather savoury tomato-based gravy. Added to that the plantains on the sandwich and I understood the long lines when the restaurant was a walk-up. Recently, I returned and had a steak sandwich. Chopped steak, swiss cheese, lettuce, shoestring potatoes, and house sauce fell from between the bread. There was nothing neat about the sandwich and that was fine, especially once each bite captivates you. Besides, you get a fork so that you can finish anything that falls back into the carton that the sandwich comes in. And the cafe con leche I ordered resulted in me returning a day later for another one. Like other Cuban restaurants I’ve gone to, the cafe con leche is addictive.
There are a few other sandwiches on the menu, a house soup, arroz con leche, flan, and beverages ranging from coffee to sodas. There isn’t an extensive menu and this may serve El Cubanito well because they’re excelling in a few sandwiches rather than being all over the place with a booklet of items to prepare. If there is one thing I have learned about these small cafes and walk-ups is that the lines are not long because those places are novelties. The lines are long because the food makes you forget whatever promises you’ve made to someone else and show up so that you can get fed.